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The Modeling Industry in the 1960s
The 1960s were a time of great change and revolution in the world of fashion; Model agencies began to appear for the first time. Initially, secretarial agencies offered their services to models to obtain contracts, charging a weekly fee for the subscription. The model was alone in selecting brands and customers and in maintaining contracts and billing accounts. Generally the payment is in cash so it was always a cat and mouse game between the models and the customs officials looking for money. So their work was limited to their own region or city, and they rarely traveled. Most of the modeling contracts were focused on the single market because of the vague and unclear labor laws that existed in different countries regarding modeling. If a model went to say France or Germany where fashion magazines and houses were well established, they were at the mercy of the agencies who took advantage of them by withholding their wages and had to return to work more, sometimes or there is no proper work visa. Competition agencies often order police officers to raid hotels where models stay without work visas.
In the late 1960s London, with a more organized and systematic approach to model making, became the center of the industry. It’s time for the model to hit the jackpot; they became famous outside their circle and became celebrities. The models who have graced the London stage are Celia Hammond, Jean Shrimpton, Joanna Lumley, Penelope Tree, Pauline Stone and Tania Mallet are household names. An important person in the whole scene is Twiggy, only 16 years old, who despite her youth and lack of experience became ‘The Face of ’66’ who inspired many girls in her personality and fashion sense. In many ways, he is different from many other models with his average height and small body and short haircut, he is almost like a boy like the taller and curvaceous models that are chosen by many agencies. He even earned more money than others; at £80 an hour compared to an average weekly wage of £25 he is the highest paid and very popular.
The formation of the Association of London Model Agents in 1967 revolutionized the modeling industry and brought changes and regulations to allow the industry to operate in a more professional manner. While in the past models were expected to be responsible for their own make-up and hairstyles, modeling agencies took over this role depending on the requirements of the client and the contract. That year also saw the founding of the Wilhelmina Model Agency by Wilhelmina Cooper and her husband. This and other agencies that emerged shortly after such as Models 1 and the FM agency helped models by exposing them to companies and helping them get better contracts and work environments. The world’s first modeling agency, Ford Models, encouraged young models to earn money and support their families; They often have young people staying at home, this was the forerunner of the ‘model home’.
The year 1968 also saw the creation of “supermodels”, color, ethnicity and race were no restrictions; models who have held the world’s attention for many times and have appeared on the covers of magazines such as Glamour, Vogue etc.
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